If Illustrated People showed at LFW we know exactly how it’d pan out. A cactus and palm tree filled space adorned with animal print fur, glitter, blow up aliens and flamingos, soundtracked by Nineties hip hop babes, braided hair everywhere and all of our best friends drinking Prosecco. Until then, we can only dream whilst ogling the beautiful collections shown over the past few days in our city. Here’s a round-up of our favourites…
Our girl Pricey came through as always with a ‘Paradise pool party’ on the roof at Selfridges. Last season ran seamlessly into the next, revealing the very silhouettes we’ve lusted over from the start – immaculately cut mini dresses and cut-out playsuits, funnel neck zip-up jackets and noughties-nodding satin bustiers. Often referencing British club and sports culture, Caitlin’s transported us this time to the bronzed shores of Napa, Ibiza, Marbella. A Balearic sunset was reflected onto tinted aviator shades through a colour palette of dusty lilac, watery pinks and shocking tangerine. Our top picks were the ‘CP Beach Club *****’ sweaters and the white trackie bottoms pressed with the designers name. Oh how we love a logo…
After waiting forever – in fashion terms that is – Matty Bovan showed his first collection under Fashion East slap bang in the middle of Spitalfields Market. Matty’s on a mission to bring back disco, no small feat, yet one not ventured alone – the disco ball adorned way has been paved by close friend Charles Jeffrey. SS17 was all we expected and more, a cascade of face painted models marching by in a melting pot of fantasy club garms. Head spinning neon citrus shades, fishnets as tights and jumpers, lashings of chainmail diamante and a 24 carat team of contributors – Coach for bags, Tatty Devine for earrings, Linda Farrow for sunglasses and an appearance from teen Hollywood royalty Hailey Baldwin.
Ashley Williams is a girl we can always depend on to dream up genuinely cool clothes that we actually want (and easily can) wear day-to-day. This season, Ashley’s show angled in the direction of presentation with a set that imitated teenage bedrooms. Think old-school TV’s with John Waters playing, shelves of Madonna CDS, giant teddy bears, cigarettes stubbed out in cherry pies, spilt nail varnish and one of the great symbols of teen femininity – the lollipop. Further than her ongoing theme of girlhood and friendship, Ashley devoted this collection (and her heart, always) to the late icon River Phoenix, citing an essay he wrote for Earth Day in 1990 throughout the show notes, and putting some of the models to work photocopying and stapling black and white photographs of him together during the show. Once again, Ashley’s team nailed it with the casting which featured boys, girls and amazing ladies Claire Barrow and Adwoah Aboah, production manager Kathryn Hewitson and environmental activist Glacier Girl. Picks from the collection are the bubblegum ‘Haircut’ hoodie, intergalactic-cum-nineties wraparound shades and the zesty yellow floral print two piece suit.
A maverick of fantasy fashion and china doll-chic, this time around Ryan Lo tapped into our wildest dreams. Think kawaii, dressing up boxes full Aladdin’s treasures and pirate hats (Stephen Jones’ crafted, mind) bright pink and orange lurex and bountiful glitter baubles. Infinitely ‘girly’, Ryan translated ‘boys characters’ onto cocktail dresses by underlaying them with shorts and topping them off with ruffled prairie collars.
Fashion East sweetheart Mimi Wade has drawn SS17 from the idea of aggressiveness surrounded by cuteness – inspired by none other than her Grandma who attaches passive aggressive notes to her fridge with bunny rabbit stickers, alongside photographs of deceased pets… Pulling us into a cartoon world, where models stood in front of a cardboard baby pink ‘Mimimount’, Mimi’s prints were cartoon puppies, duelling dinosaurs, pop-tastic cherries and Cruella Da Vil – worthy dalmatian. Our picks were print slip dresses edged with large scale lace in neon shades, and the cherry print, puffball shoulder dress with ‘Suggested for Mature Audience’ printed neatly across the chest in a juxtaposition of youth and adulthood.
Seemingly incapable of ever showing a less than awe-evoking collection, Marta and Paulo have done it again and shut the door on LFW for the season…as far as we’re concerned. What we love about M/A is how they consistently carry shapes, shades and textures through from season to season, whilst presenting a series of looks which somehow appear brand-new. We can put trust in the duo for frayed denim, oversized silhouettes, nineties/noughties references, a chocolate box of shades from parma violet to sludgy khaki to fuchsia. Introduced this season is tinfoil-esque silver metallic trousers, a lilac marabou jacket, several puff shoulder jumpsuits, like much else in the collection, with silver rings. With deconstruction being a huge part of the brand’s DNA; floral slip dresses are slashed with pretty gashes that are seamed with ruffles and shapes hang away from the body like Demna’s puffa jackets at Balenciaga. On our wish list? The bright pink metallic lace up sandals please!
words by Lilly Cook